Gastro Traveling

Discover Napa’s Simpler Serene Side at The Sunburst Calistoga

November 28, 2015 by Steve Mirsky Leave a Comment

Napa Valley is a gourmand’s paradise. A quick 45 minutes north of San Francisco (sans traffic) over the Golden Gate Bridge, across the barren hills of San Rafael and Galinas and then onto Route 37 along San Pablo Bay and its cooling breezes that ultimately moderate The Valley‘s ideal growing climate. The City of Napa is the Valley’s southernmost gateway to endless wine tastings thanks to more than 400 vineyards spanning roughly 50 miles anchored by posh inns and retreats along with an extremely high concentration of Michelin rated dining. But where do you turn if you just want to drink in the ambiance and not drain your bank account?

Head to where the Silverado Trail (now a road) begins on the valley’s northern end in Calistoga. Downtown Calistoga, a walkable historic district with local shops and restaurants like Calistoga Roastery (a frequent haunt of Pearls Before Swine illustrator Stephan Pastis), Solbar, and Sam’s Social Club are interconnected with Queen Anne style Victorians (some of which are B&Bs) gracing the side streets. Unhustled, more laid back, off the “scene-and-be-seen radar”, Calistoga has been a renowned spa destination ever since mineral mud baths became popular back in the late 1700s during California’s Spanish colonial era. An 8 minute stroll from the village center up Lincoln Ave. brings you to The Sunburst Calistoga. Once a single-story 1950s motor lodge, now all 50 rooms rehabbed to retro modern with boutique perks like mini bar snacks restocked daily including in-room Kuerigs armed with regional gourmet roasts, reliable Wi-fi, and most blessedly, daily access to their mineral pools.

The Sunburst Calistoga taps into the area’s fissures deep below the earth’s surface providing a natural source of 180 degree water heated by seismic activity feeding their 2 pools and spa tub. By the time it reaches the pools, temperatures range from 80 degrees in the main pool to 104 in the jacuzzi. All are open 9 am to 10 pm each day for guests seeking a blissful soak or a few laps. Although chlorinated for sanitary reasons, you can still detect a greenish tint and sulfuric aroma to these waters rich in silica, sulfur, sodium, calcium, magnesium, potassium, and iron. Beyond the toasty hot water euphoria and muscle relaxation that comes with it, these minerals also revitalize skin and normalize your metabolism. As an added bonus, your body absorbs these needed minerals much more effectively through the skin than swallowed concentrated supplements.

During your stay, wine tasting adventures can begin next door at Lava Wine and progress down Silverado Trail to Brian Arden Wines. You’ll soon discover there are only so many swirls, sips, and spits you are going to want to do before deciding on a bottle and savoring with friends. This is totally doable if you slow down your wine tasting journey by taking a bike following Calistoga’s one of many designated bike routes to further afield vineyard. By no means an endorsement for biking while drunk, keep in mind that Portland Oregon has more bikes and breweries per square mile than anyplace in the U.S. and they haven’t met the apocalypse yet. Here’s my theory: Biking minimizes alcohol intake since your travel time drastically lengthens and you’re too busy enjoying the ride to sip a few more glasses. Should you take this approach or hike the Oat Hill Mine Trail across the street from The Sunburst, you’ll be rewarded with awe inspiring views and a deeper sense of place.

Photos courtesy of The Sunburst Calistoga and Steve Mirsky. Coverage made possible by participating in a sponsored stay.

The 1000 Islands’ Latest Harbor Hotel in Clayton New York

November 3, 2015 by Steve Mirsky Leave a Comment

The Village of Clayton is situated on the St. Lawrence River where it begins converging with Lake Ontario in New York State’s 1000 Islands region. Seemingly untouched by time with not a chain outlet to be found among local shops in historically preserved storefronts along with grand Victorians in a walk able street grid, it’s no wonder that an adjacent long underutilized water front lot used as a fuel depot was recently transformed into 1000 Islands Harbor Hotel, a AAA 4-diamond full service resort.

Checking into the 1000 Islands Harbor Hotel begins in a rustically furnished vaulted ceiling grand entry leading to hallways lined with vintage photos depicting Clayton’s historical ties with the river. Artistic lighting, intricately patterned carpeting, and water view windows wherever possible provide a distinctive ambiance to the common areas while rooms feature hardwood composite flooring, bay windows overlooking the St. Lawrence, and floor to ceiling tiled showers. The hotel’s 6 suites include spa tubs, lavishly outfitted wet bars, and at least one balcony.

Onsite Seaway Grille has grown into a local dining hotspot with just as many outside patrons as on site guests savoring freshly prepared dishes like Curried Barley, Frenched Pork Chops, and a tender house made gnocchi served with sage butter, asparagus, prosciutto and pumpkin seeds topped with feta. Executive Chef Patrick Leibacher also regularly schedules culinary experiences like a Wild Game Dinner Series and a 7 Continents Dinner with dishes paired with wines from across the globe. This culinary inspiration spills over into the adjoining 1000 Islands Bar with local Wood Boat Brewery on tap accompanied by small plates like sunflower seed dusted scallops and a regionally inspired North Country Charcuterie board.

With over 6,000 square feet of conference and banquet space including a grand ballroom, you can bet that plenty of weddings are booked here overlooking the river with fire pits interspersed throughout their extensive riverside patio. Partnering with two local spas, the hotel’s In-House Spa packages include sparkling wine and strawberries upon arrival, in-room massages by Creative Edge Salon, and breakfast in bed. Their Romantic Getaway package bumps it up a notch with a bottle of Champagne and rose petal turn down.

Next door to the hotel, step down onto the 49-slip municipal floating dock and look clear to the bottom. You’ll see why the St. Lawrence River is a fishing and recreational boater’s paradise as well as a key shipping route a.k.a the Seaway connecting the Atlantic Ocean to the Great Lakes. Dotted with 1,864 islands to be exact, many of the Thousand Islands are private and large enough to only accommodate a small cottage while others grandly display Gilded Age mansions like Boldt and Singer Castles regularly open for tours.

As part of the hotel’s Island Cruise Package, you can board the Muskie, Captain Jeff Garnsey of Classic Island Cruises‘ 1953 wooden cruiser for 3-hour river excursions. Instead of large double decked tour boats narrated by an unseen guide over an intercom, Jeff describes what you’re seeing right from his wheel on a deck accommodating no more than 6 passengers. Garnsey customizes his voyages to include local wine and cheese pairings, stopping off at Boldt Castle, providing close up views of storied homes on Millionaires Row, as well as following a route bootleggers used back in the 1930’s. Garnsey also incorporates a Shore Dinner Experience into his cruises featuring traditional ingredients and techniques developed over more than a century as a St. Lawrence River tradition.

Other can’t-miss 1000 Island attractions include Clayton’s Antique Boat Museum. Here, 4.5 acres worth of exhibits depict the evolution of recreational boating from sleek wooden cruisers of the 1930s up through the roaring 50’s & 60’s when speed boats were built for the masses. The Seaway Wine Trail, winding through 78 miles of the scenic byways includes Clayton and rewards visiting wine enthusiasts with local award-winning Coyote Moon and Thousand Islands wineries with pairing possibilities made all the more authentic with local River Rat Cheeses.

Photos courtesy of 1000 Islands Harbor Hotel & Steve Mirsky. Coverage made possible by participating in a partially sponsored visit.

Way Beyond Golf at Florida’s PGA National Resort & Spa

July 31, 2015 by Steve Mirsky Leave a Comment

With a name like PGA National Resort & Spa, home of the annual Honda Classic in Palm Beach Gardens Florida, you’d be right to assume that golf is big here with 5 onsite championship golf courses including 1 that’s brand new Fazio designed. But even for travelers who haven’t swung a club and never plan on it, PGA National’s wide array of other award winning amenities make it a premier go-to Florida escape.

Staying Here

You know you’ve arrived once you’re standing in their expansive lobby overlooking the resort’s zero entry pool and lake in the background. Right outside, iDECK, a 3,000 sq. ft. dining and event terrace is under construction while iBar, their full lobby bar awaits with sumptuous seating, light bites, and golf themed cocktails like The Pommer and Tee Time served from 11 a.m. ’til after midnight.

Since opening in 1981, PGA National Resort and Spa has not only evolved along with the game of golf and tournament circuit but in exceeding guest expectations with ongoing upgrades. Currently in their final phase of a property-wide $100 million renovation, all 379 guest rooms received floor-to-ceiling makeovers. Some were redeveloped into specialty suites like 1 bedroom Media Rooms elevating the man cave concept to a 5-star level with multiple large screen HDTVs and enough designer leather recliners to accommodate game day partying. A Bridal Suite features bathrooms outfitted with limestone walls and a large soaking tub. Two additional Spa Suites bring spa services directly to you with a second door from the bathroom leading to a room outfitted with a professional massage tables.

Dining

Although there are a total of 6 on site venues to grab a bite, when it’s time for that ultra luxe dining experience, you simply must head over to Ironwood Steak & Seafood. The menu centers around exactly what the restaurant’s name implies. But the magic resides in its plush conversation-inducing ambiance, impeccably personalized service, and how Executive Chef Sean McKee artfully builds signature dishes using seasonally fresh ingredients and prime locally caught seafood like Mahi-Mahi, Red Snapper, and Florida Spiny Lobsters. In the turf category, opulent cuts of steak feature their 32-ounce Wagyu Tomahawk Bone-In Ribeye for Two and Kansas City 21 day dry-aged prime are seared to perfection in a Vulcan 1,200-degree broiler. You can shoot the moon with wine pairings thanks to their floor-to-ceiling 1000 bottle wine room. A remarkable 36 vintages are available by the glass including PGA Private Label Cabernet Sauvignon made in Napa exclusively for the resort.

Satisfying sides like their chive risotto, wild mushroom ragu, or She Crab soup make you less guilty about indulging in their house made warm Belgian chocolate lava cake or a daily chef’s trio of mouse.

But the fine culinary delights coming out of Chef McKee’s kitchens aren’t strictly confined to the formalized onsite venues. PGA National’s very own mobile gourmet iTruck periodically opens up as the resort’s 92-second hole as well as competing in food truck competitions and catering local events & parties with comfort food like BBQ pork sliders, Birdie Shrimp, truffle fries, and lobster sliders. The resort also hosts festivals throughout the year like a Craft Beer Festival & Burger Bash showcasing more than 120 craft beers and ciders paired with gourmet burgers and live local music. Back in 2013, PGA National set a new Guinness Book World Record for the longest ice cream sundae at their Ice Cream Festival. Reaching a length of 1250 feet snaking through 2 ballrooms and the entire length of the resort’s 40,000 sq foot indoor conference center, the sundae consisted of 1850 lbs of Luke’s Ice Cream, 1696 lbs of chocolate sauce, 462 lbs. of sprinkles, 840 lbs of whipped cream, and 1748 lbs of bananas.

Waters of the World Spa

Ranked among the top 25 spas in the United States in a recent Conde Nast Traveler poll, the 40,000 square-foot European-style Spa at PGA National features Waters of the World, mineral pools infused with healing salts imported from Salies de Bearn in the French Pyrenees as well as Israelan Dead Sea salt.

Choose from more than 100 internationally inspired treatments like a Pure Fiji Coconut Honey Sugar Scrub that exfoliates then moisturizes with a botanical blend of 4 tropical drift nut oils and passionflower extract. Or go high tech with their Hydrafacial Treatment System that uses a vacuum based skin abrasion tip removing impurities with while infusing the healthy underlying skin with deep cleansing active serums.

No visit is complete without having in-spa Waters of the World Cafe serve healthy spa-tini cocktails like their vitamin B rich Watermelon Vodkatini along with healthy snacks pool side from the comfort of your lounger. Don’t forget, your stay includes unlimited access to their Health & Racquet Center featuring 19 Har Tru tennis courts, racquetball courts and an outdoor lap pool.

Photos courtesy of PGA National Resort & Spa. Coverage made possible by participating in a sponsored visit.

Connecticut’s Delamar Hotel Southport: Boutique New England Meets New York Chic

June 8, 2015 by Steve Mirsky Leave a Comment

Only 80 minutes from Midtown NYC and a quick walk from Southport Connecticut’s train station, Delamar Southport‘s classic white clapboard colonial architecture situated on the Old Post Road looks like it’s been a fixture here since the town’s 19th century maritime heyday.

Until walking inside, it’s hard to conceive that construction on the property was actually completed in 2010 . Then you realize this quintessential Connecticut escape is a recent creation deftly balancing the refined elegance of New York chic with New England country charm.

Delamar Southport’s lobby is the perfect place for lingering with your complimentary glass of champagne or sherry upon check-in. You’re surrounded by custom designed furnishings, antique marble floors, museum-quality art from the owner’s personal collection, and a French limestone hearth in the center.

Other inclusives making your stay extra special include chauffeur service within a 3 mile radius of the property encompassing local beaches, and a full breakfast buffet each morning. A 24 hour concierge service is on hand to arrange a picnic basket prepared for a day at the beach along with complimentary towel service and bottled water.

Whether checking into one of their 44 guestrooms or 6 luxury suites, one of which is the 2,800-square-foot Woodward-Newman Presidential Suite outfitted with three spacious bedrooms and two-and-a-half baths, you’re in for the ultimate boutique hotel experience. Rooms have a light, airy décor anchored by resplendent four-poster beds, handcrafted furnishings, the latest flat-screen TVs and Tivoli audio systems with iPod docking stations. Marble floors, Bvlgari bath amenities, and Italian linens grace the bathrooms.

It’s easy to see why long term stays, especially in the suites, are common with twice daily housekeeping including evening turndown, same day laundry and dry cleaning service, as well as dog friendly for pets under 100 pounds. And lucky for you when it’s meal time. You’re steps away from on site Artisan Restaurant, Tavern & Garden.

Artisan

Originally from Paris, Executive Chef Frederic Kieffer cooked at top restaurants in France, New York, and in Connecticut at L’escale and Gaia before taking the reigns at Artisan in 2011. Kieffer reportedly had his ingredient suppliers lined up well before Artisan’s architectural drawings were completed. “We source ingredients from local farms in the spring, summer, and fall. In the dead of winter we have to reach out to Californian or Floridian growers but even then we only work with the most sustainable farms.”

Artisan exudes craftsmanship from the interior’s 18th century classic Scandinavian design to artfully prepared dishes. “Our goal is to produce as much as we can in house”, says Kieffer. “Our restaurant is named Artisan because we want to showcase the craft of cooking in every way possible. Homemade items include our pickles, apple wood smoked bacon, breakfast sausages, foie gras, meatballs, all our pastas, and not-to-miss sorbets and ice creams.”

Their seafood chowder is a classic dish where it all comes together. First served in a shallow white soup plate with choice morsels caught within the last 24 hours nestled in the bottom, a pitcher of creamy chowder is then poured over the top. Sprinkling on some of their house-made fennel flavored oyster crackers adds just the right touch.

Seating options here are diverse ranging from indoor dining area centered around a full bar, an outdoor patio/garden during warmer months with a full service bar as well, and The Copper Room, an elegant glassed-in private dining room ideal for special more intimate gatherings.

When asked about his personal favorite menu pairings, Kieffer shares, “During summer there is nothing better than our local oysters from Mystic CT with a glass of Sancerre. If you prefer Chardonnays then the roasted oysters are terrific. Menu items during cooler months like pig croquettes (homemade crispy pig headcheese), chicken liver mousse, and cheese from our friends at the Fairfield cheese shop, all pair nicely with a glass of Oregon Pinot Noir”.

Spa

A restful escape is never complete without a spa visit. Featuring skin treatments using award-winning Biologique Recherche and Valmont, as well as micro current therapy, medical-grade collagen upgrades, and an Amethyst BioMat, Delamar Southport’s full-service spa suite offers respite with a more intimate setting than the typical spa layout. Outfitted with a couples treatment room, steam shower, and living room with a fireplace, you are closer than ever to restorative bliss.

Photos courtesy of Delamar Southport and Elitemeetings.com Coverage made possible by participating in a sponsored visit.

Connecticut’s White Hart Inn Features British Cuisine

May 15, 2015 by Steve Mirsky Leave a Comment

Getting away from it all doesn’t always mean escaping but rather discovering something new. A great example of this lies 2 hours north of NYC in the quintessential New England town of Salisbury Connecticut. Overlooking the center green, increasingly hard-to-find seats at recently restored 16- room White Hart Inn‘s restaurant and tap room clearly demonstrate that word is spreading about Chef Annie Wayte‘s British-inspired cuisine.

Although a fixture in Connecticut’s Northwest corner for over 200 years, the White Hart Inn has evolved with some prior notable owners like Edsel Ford, an alumnus of nearby Hotchkiss School, and tea maker John Harney who got his start crafting blends in the inn’s basement. As reflected in a 1964 local newspaper ad inviting residents to buffet-style Sunday Suppers for $2.99 per person, the inn’s menus have evolved as well. One constant is that the bar and restaurant continue to serve as a gathering place for NYC weekenders, parents visiting their children at nearby boarding schools, and locals connecting over their favorite libations.

Chef Annie Wayte

Mastering the perfect pastry crust was tops on Chef Wayte’s achievement list at age 9. Inspired by Fanny Craddock’s TV show (Britain’s Julia Child) and later as a young adult on London’s haut-cuisine circuit, she picked up many core skills at Michelin-starred restaurants like Sally Clarke’s (think Alice Waters). Then it was on to helming fashion designer Nicole Farhi’s restaurant and the esteemed 202 Café in London, both of which she replicated in NYC before joining the White Hart team in 2014.

Wayte is quick to point out that British gastronomy was a disaster 25-30 years ago. “Now it is on par with the world’s best making London one of the best restaurant cities in the world. While chefs like Fergus Henderson, Mark Hix, and Jason Atherton elevated quality British foodstuffs like Bramley Apples, Seakale, Langoustines, and Clotted Cream, the real credit goes to farmers, fishermen and ranchers producing these key ingredients. If you haven’t tasted real Devonshire clotted cream on a freshly baked scone with English strawberry jam then you are certainly missing out.”

Tap Room

Menu staples here include accessible tavern-style English fare like Scotch Eggs, Devils on Horseback, along with classic Fish & Chips. “I’m really fortunate to have amazing partners that give me free reign on the menu here at White Hart. Having sunk many a pint in the Tap Room over the last decade, I am sensitive to the fact that it belongs to our local customers. It is their pub.”

Dining Room

“I wanted to take our dining here a step further with dishes like roasted pork rack with foie gras butter and grilled swordfish with freekah, baby beets, and pickled ramps.” Hardwood floors underfoot softly contrast with cream-colored wainscot paneled walls sporadically graced by paintings from local artists Jasper Johns, Frank Stella, Terry Winters, and Tom Levine. A long wooden table in the center surrounded by rustic dining tables covered with white tablecloths add elegance without the pretension. A working fireplace warms the space during colder weather.

Regardless of which menu you pick, just about everything is made from scratch with the best ingredients available usually sourced from local purveyors. “We’ve put a lot of time and energy into building a really broad list of wines from small producers at gentle price points and our draft beers are all local New England and New York craft produced.”

Photos courtesy of Steve Mirsky & White Hart Inn. Coverage made possible by participating in a sponsored tasting.

The Jupiter Hotel: Exploring Beyond Downtown Portland

March 24, 2015 by Steve Mirsky Leave a Comment

With countless monikers like Rip City, Stumptown, and Beervana, I have added Bridge City to Portland Oregon’s list. The Willamette River runs right through the center of Portland with a total of 9 bridges (not counting rail) connecting downtown to Eastside neighborhood districts like Buckman, Sunnyside, and Ladd’s Addition. Some bridges are only doable by car, but others like the Burnside Bridge are pedestrian/ bike-friendly leading directly to streets flanked with former warehouses, factories, and well worn motels now home to a proliferation of breweries, artisan food producers, and boutique hotels like The Jupiter Hotel several blocks down Burnside Ave. from the bridge.

A drab two-story concrete slab 1960’s motor lodge before reopening after a complete rehab in 2004, The Jupiter is now a modern hotel and entertainment hub with the drab courtyard parking lot converted into an outdoor event space. Floor-to-ceiling windows were installed on one half of the north wing’s ground floor where you’ll find the front desk to the back of an art gallery showcasing rotating works of neighborhood artists. The entire property’s irreverent contemporary flair oozes hipster yet has a completely unpretentious vibe.

All of Jupiter’s 80 rooms are minimalist to the extent that they retain their concrete slab cores yet have interiors elevated to creative hideaways outfitted with wall murals, chalkboard surfaced doors for inspired doodling, free reliable wifi, and furnishings like Blu Dot type tables, platform beds, and lighting. Extra touches upon check in include prophylactic protection and earplugs placed discretely on your nightstand. Bathrooms feature stainless sinks and eco-friendly Natura bath soaps and creams. Lobby staff graciously brew pot after pot of complimentary locally roasted Water Avenue Coffee well into late morning.

Just remember there are prerequisites for staying here and enjoying the experience. Although divided into Chill Side (some rooms further away from the nightlife) and Bar Patio Side (rooms facing onsite Doug Fir Lounge‘s outdoor patio), you must either be part of the action partying until early morning or not be averse to sleeping with ear plugs. If that’s OK, you’ll be rewarded with full immersion into one of Portland’s many neighborhoods giving life to the bumper stickers and t-shirts you’ll see around emblazoned with “Keep Portland Weird”.

Many bands playing nightly at Doug Fir Lounge are coveted on the Pacific Northwest rock/indie/funk (or combo thereof) circuit. Best described as ”Paul Bunyan meets Chelsea diner”, Doug Fir’s interior resembles a large log cabin furnished with retro touches like slippery sumptuous brown vinyl seating. The bar is the flat side of none other than a huge Douglas Fire log sliced down the middle. When the house lights go down, and the sun comes up, The Doug Fir Lounge awaits your cravings with lumberjack breakfasts, grass-fed burgers, and a separate Only Local portion of their cocktail menu built exclusively using local ingredients like New Deal Distillery’s Hot Monkey Pepper Infused Vodka. Even if you don’t catch the live shows, tunes featuring bands set to play within the next few days are piped in during daytime via their online radio station.

Right outside your door, you get the convenience of Voodoo Doughnuts, Le Pigeon, Bunk Sandwiches and Sizzle Pie. Further afield, City State Diner serves up some mean breakfast plates with a signature bloody mary filled with your Basic 4 for a genuine liquid breakfast. Also don’t miss the nearby food cart pods that I found to be more eclectic than downtown.

Loads of breweries, distillery row, and non-chain shopping are all a quick walk or do like a Portlander and grab a bike. Jupiter offers rentals so you can hit the city’s network of bike lanes in no time exploring Portland’s 58 breweries on pre-planned bike routes outlined in Hop in the Saddle.

Check out the Jupiter’s ever changing packages like their “PDX Brews and Booze Experience”

Photos courtesy of The Jupiter Hotel, Mosca, & Steve Mirsky. Coverage made possible by participating in a partially sponsored visit.

Toasting the Farm-to-Table Success of Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom

February 22, 2015 by Steve Mirsky Leave a Comment

There’s a movement underway spanning from Burlington VT to Northeast Kingdom towns like Newport, Hardwick, and St. Johnsbury. For many visitors, perceptions of Vermont center on bucolic foliage scenes, maple syrup, and skiing. But residents are increasingly making their living from the area’s booming farm-to-table movement.

The Vermont Fresh Network (VFN) is a big driver behind getting seasonal produce from local farms & small batch artisans directly to your favorite restaurants’ menus. This mutually beneficial state wide program now connects more than 150 chefs to hundreds of local producers. Restaurants benefit by having local sources for a wide variety of Vermont made products while farmers and artisan food producers have a growing client list to keep their businesses thriving.

Here’s a tasting itinerary heavily skewed toward the locally produced beverage category:

Northeast Kingdom Tasting Center

Launch your excursions in downtown Newport VT just off I-91 near the Canadian border in a former storefront now revived as an under-one-roof bonanza of Northeast Kingdom artisan delights. Here you can taste a wide variety of spirits, syrups, and cheeses while browsing shelves lined with Made in VT foods and beverages like Switchel, an original thirst quencher before Gaterade or artificially colored energy drinks were concocted. Farmhands kept ice cold jugs filled with this gulp inducing mixture of water, vinegar, lemon juice, ginger, and maple syrup in reserve for energy boosting rehydration during hay harvests or wood chopping sessions. Have lunch at the Center’s on site cafe serving up grass fed burgers, salads built with year round local greens, and several rotating local brews on tap.

Eden Ice Ciders

Cider is the next burgeoning craft scene in VT’s Northeast Kingdom…some say bigger than beer. Production is skyrocketing as new technologically equipped facilities ramp up each year. Farm orchards are fueling the frenzy rediscovering long forgotten apple varieties originally bred for cider. Head down to the Visitors Center’s basement which doubles as Eden Ice Cider headquarters. Banks of stainless steel tanks ferment ciders straight from their orchards. Eden was born when owners Eleanor and Albert Leger took a trip to Montreal in 2006 when cider making was popular only in Canada. A year later they bought an abandoned dairy farm in West Charleston and soon had over 1,000 apple trees yielding 5 vintages of ice cider. Their latest lineup is Orleans herbal and bitter aperitif ice ciders perfect for meal time sipping.

Hill Farmstead Brewery

Similar to the way fans once endured long hours waiting in line for coveted concert tickets, beer aficionados now exhibit the same fervor over the latest Saison or Heritage Hop brew. Only open Wed.-Sat. 12-5 with limited outside distribution, lines often snake from the entrance to this Greensboro brewery’s barrel room. Here small batch takes on religious proportions with 6 draft lines, limited release bottles, and a strict growler refill limit. Fresh sourced hops and creative fermentation like their Galaxy Single Hop Pale Ale are fueling Hill Farmstead’s growth by leaps and bounds (they just finished a major addition). But they’re trying not to grow too fast by shipping only to the local Vermont market.

Caledonia Spirits

Hold on to your hat, each Caledonia spirit has a distinct personality. Whether it’s their taste bud tingling gin, versatile vodka, or Reserve Tom Cat, all are micro distilled from organic local grain from nearby Butterwork Farms. A touch of raw honey raised in on-site hives is added to all bottles as well. Added just before bottling, the honey imparts unique floral qualities that vary with season and blossom. With their signature gin, you’re getting spruce on the nose and palate along with the noticeable pungency of fresh picked wild juniper berries. Barr Hill Vodka is smooth enough for sipping yet has enough personality for mixing. Tom Cat is Caledonia’s modern day adaption of 18th century England’s most revered spirit, Old Tom gin. Barrel aged 4-6 months in locally harvested and produced charred American White Oak, Tom Cat is a completely unique gin with whiskey-like notes of oak, spice and a finish of juniper and raw honey.

Where to Stay

Since you’re actively seeking out authentic culinary experiences, it’s only fitting that you’d want to stay at non-corporate accommodations directly supporting the region’s many small business owners. One fantastic example is Estabrook House B&B in St. Johnsbury. This isn’t the place to stay if you require nightly turn down service, an onsite spa, or a guaranteed private bathroom. But you have found your temporary home if you want a room in a Victorian mansion restored to its original grandeur complete with stained glass windows, ornate wood carved banisters, and a living room filled with games, maps, and books,. Innkeeper Maureen Hennings cooks up scratch made breakfasts each morning and if you’re lucky, a plate of her pillowy pumpkin pancakes. Best of all, staying here puts you within walking distance to nearby St. Johnsbury attractions like Fairbanks Museum & Planetarium, and can’t-miss dining at Bailiwicks and Kingdom Taproom.

Photos courtesy of Steve Mirsky & Hill Farmstead Brewery. Coverage made possible by participating in a visit partially sponsored by Northeast Kingdom Travel & Tourism Association. Check out travelthekingdom.com for more NE VT trip ideas.

Elegant Chatham Bars Inn Grows Its Own on Cape Cod

January 12, 2015 by Steve Mirsky Leave a Comment

Visiting Chatham Bars Inn

Apparently game hunting was all the rage in wealthy Bostonian circles back in 1914. That’s when Cape Cod’s Chatham Bars Inn made its debut as a semi-private hunting lodge in the days when sunscreen and bikinis were nonexistent. Early advertisements boasted rooms with plastered soundproof walls, electric lights, steam heat, long distance phones, and private bathrooms with both fresh & salt water baths.

Shore bird hunting soon yielded in popularity to 9-hole golfing across the street. Eventually, sunbathing became all the rage and remains a major attraction on the property’s private 1/4 mile beach just across the street. Staying here is like joining a historic 217-room sea side community. You get impeccable turn down & room service whether you’re staying in a classic main inn room, beach cottage (many with unobstructed ocean views), or a spa suite designed for the ultimate pampering.

A Forbes 4-Star rated and Leading Hotels of the World member, Chatham Bars Inn experienced $100-million in renovations from 2006-9 adding all the luxuries of 5-star living like a brand new spa and completely redesigned/constructed cottages. Despite the property’s stellar upgrades, its entire historical turn-of-the-century integrity is meticulously preserved.

While there’s plenty to explore off property with Chatham Village just a 20 minute walk away and Chatham Lighthouse with additional beach access just down the street, you’ll have plenty at your fingertips like poolside mini bar-equipped cabanas, a wide veranda overlooking Pleasant Bay, a 52-foot Viking yacht for deep-sea fishing, and traditional Cape Cod clambakes on the beach.

Authentic Farm-to-Table Dining

Chatham Bars Inn not only serves dishes made with local ingredients, they grow them on their farm just 15 minutes away in Brewster as well as hitting the town docks for just-caught seafood each day. Stars and Sacred Cod, the inn’s 2 signature restaurants helmed by Chef Anthony Cole both set the stage for artfully prepared dishes like Lentils & Frisee Salad and Fettuccini Bolognese. Dining areas provide spectacular ocean views framed by original wood paneling and vaulted ceilings.

Farmer Josh Schiff in collaboration with Chef Cole grows 75 different varieties of vegetables, herbs, and fruits during the growing season. Established in 2012 on 7.7-acres once home to a garden center, Chatham Bars Inn has invested over $1.7 million building up the farm’s growing infrastructure like 2 plastic hoop greenhouses, a dozen 12 x 8 grow tunnels, and a vintage green 1956 John Deere tractor for plowing the fields.

In addition to planting cover crops like rye, Schiff fortifies the farm’s notoriously sandy Cape Cod soil each year with compost directly from the tons of organic waste produced from the inn’s kitchens. “Our growing capacity has nearly quadrupled from when we first purchased this property”, says Schiff. “Our goal is to eventually grow all the ingredients we need for a dish like minestrone soup.”

Joshua, a self-described heirloom tomato fanatic, grows nearly 35 varieties along with other crops like 30 varieties of micro greens (not yet grown year round), cucumbers, cabbage, and cauliflower. Most produce is organic but not yet certified due to the lengthy approval process.

In addition to providing the Inn with fresh sustainable produce, Schiff takes social responsibility a step further partnering with Cape Abilities, a local nonprofit that provides job opportunities for disabled Cape Cod residents. Not only do Joshua and his staff help others gain meaningful employment, they have learned some finer points of greenhouse and hydroponic growing from the Cape Abilities team as well.

Photos courtesy of Chatham Bars Inn & Steve Mirsky. Coverage made possible by participating in a sponsored visit.

Hotel Hershey’s Iconic Stature Matched with Stellar Culinary Treats

December 29, 2014 by Steve Mirsky Leave a Comment

While the Great Depression gripped most of the world in 1931, Milton S. Hershey built an opulent hotel atop Pat’s Hill overlooking his chocolate factory in Hershey Pennsylvania. The Hershey Hotel is truly a testament to the fact that greatness marches to the beat of a different drum. But eccentricity borne by wealth alone doesn’t explain why Mr. Hershey went ahead with such an extravagant project during hard times. Faced with the decision of either employing his town’s construction workers or providing for their welfare, he chose the former.

In 1903, nearly 30 years before the foundation was laid, Hershey had site plans in place for building a grand hotel. Cairo’s Heliopolis Hotel was Hershey’s initial design inspiration after staying there several times with his wife Kitty. But a prohibitive $5 million construction estimate led him to hand over a postcard along with personal notes to architect D. Paul Witmer describing his stays at a 30-room hotel in the Mediterranean with a U-shaped base and a tower at each end. This was his Plan B.

Using these inspirations as a model, The Hotel Hershey ended up being considerably larger at 170-rooms employing nearly 800 local steelworkers, masons, carpenters, craftsmen, and laborers. The property’s most distinctive feature, the main Fountain Lobby, reflects Milton’s love of Cuba with its Castilian inspired courtyards. Details down to wrought iron lights, railings hand carved from gnarled oak, to the entire ceiling painted and lit as a serene Carribean sky recreate a mood of relaxed gentility.

Although The Hotel Hershey’s grounds boasted extensive gardens, walking paths, a riding stable with several miles of trails, tennis courts, and a 9-hole golf course, it was primarily designed to connect guests to Hershey’s growing amusement park just a 10 minute walk down the hill past elaborate botanical gardens and Milton Hershey School. To this day, the property’s serene ambiance intriguingly contrasts with the theme park action very much present in the valley below.

The Hotel Hershey’s original layout and architecture are resolutely preserved but many additions and enhancements were made over the years including a new 100-room West Tower, opening Spa at the Hotel Hershey in 2001, and embarking on a $67 million Grand Expansion in 2009 which added 10 new luxury guest cottages, multiple swimming pools, year-round ice-skating rink, and 7 new boutique shops. Onsite dining helmed by innovative chefs Cher Harris and Ken Gladysz most notably eccentuate this classic hotel’s ever evolving grandeur.

Executive Chef Ken Gladysz

“For me, Hershey is a fabulous year round destination boasting a strong downtown restaurant scene influenced by nearby culinary hubs like NYC and Philly. You’ve got 3 Amtrak stations within 15 minutes from Hershey Hotel for day trips to Philly’s Reading Terminal Market, Baltimore’s Lexington Market or perhaps a dim sum session in NYC,” says Gladysz.

Since 1981, Chef Gladysz’s kitchen prowess has taken him from Sarasota FL to multiple Four Seasons Hotels ranging from Tokyo, Saudi Arabia, and Bali to Houston and Jackson Hole. Now at the Hershey Hotel for 9 years, he finds that giving his time teaching culinary coop students at the Milton Hershey School just a 5 minute sidewalk down the hill connects him to the property’s longstanding educational mission. Founded by Milton and Catherine as an orphanage, the school is now an institution of academic excellence for underprivileged children.

In the kitchen, staff buy-in is crucial for Gladysz who lays out the basic ingredients and then works with his team to develop menus for all 3 of Hotel Hershey’s on site signature restaurants Harvest, Trevi 5 and The Circular. Harvest was first to embrace the bounties of fresh and local comfort dishes like Anson Mills Grit Cakes and Braised Venison Ragout.

If you dine onsite only once, make sure it’s the The Circular, Milton Hershey’s answer to what plagued him as a solo traveler. Often shunted behind pillars or to a seat with obstructed views, Hershey made sure all his guests would have a great seat by designing The Circular complete with a semi-circular dining area wrapped by 13 floor to ceiling windows anchored by an elegant circular bar at the center with formal garden and fountain views just outside. Craft cocktails have taken off here in a big way using herbs right out of their gardens during summer and of course artfully incorporating Hershey’s signature chocolates into some of their sweeter drinks like their signature Special Dark martini.

“At Trevi 5, we make authentic Italian…our own pasta machine, salads built with locally grown micro greens, fresh panninis, and authentic hand-tossed pizzas that are hands down the region’s best. Dining outside on the terrace weather permiting is my personal favorite with spectacular valley sunsets”, says Galdysz. On the matter of chocolate, Gladysz loves the ingredient for its widely diverse flavors that often take him in more savory directions than the exquisite sweet treats like Trevi’s signature chocolate cream pie courtesy of Pastry Chef Cher Harris.

Executive Pastry Chef Cher Harris

From her award winning open pastry kitchen overlooking The Circular, Chef Harris and her staff of 18 are a veritable baking machine for all the property’s menus. Harris joined The Hotel Hershey in 2009 after a self taught stint at nearby Hollywood Casino baking scratch made pastries. Bread remains her passion and it shows in the seeded and rustic loaves served at dinner as well as Sunday brunch.

“Deconstructing desserts seems to be the rage but to me it goes beyond the requisite foams and specialty frostings to the underlying ingredients like fresh cream and the locally harvested beets I use for the red embossing on our wedding cakes.” She also deftly works Scharfenberger (now Hershey owned) into Hotel Hershey’s signature desserts like Warm S’more Souffle.

Coverage courtesy of a partially sponsored trip. Photos courtesy of Hotel Hershey & Steve Mirsky

Concord New Hampshire’s Thriving Restaurant Scene and Historic Architecture

November 24, 2014 by Steve Mirsky Leave a Comment

Historic preservation and a huge selection of locally run eateries are two features that immediately stand out when walking Concord New Hampshire’s Main Street. A State Capitol city of 42,000, the statehouse building is an integral part of Concord’s pedestrian fabric prominently sharing the street front with highly ornate architecture, much of it constructed of brick or massive blocks of the State’s signature gray granite. As much as Concord is steeped in history (2015 marks its 250th anniversary), the City clearly has a forward looking focus with a planned multi-million dollar Main St. streetscape project in the works.

Concord’s Dining Evolution

Concord’s sheer dining variety and growing restaurant count rivals towns triple its size largely thanks to a new generation of immigrants moving in and taking over turn-of-the-century Mom & Pops that either retired & moved on or closed due to changing times.

One shop bucking this trend in a big way is Granite State Candy Shoppe. Open since 1927 and now in its 3rd generation, many of the store’s vast assortment of candies are made the same as when they started out. By selection, I’m talking 5 different types of malted milk balls with enough bulk candy and chocolates to pack a shopping bag bulging with a no duplicate assortment. And just in case you were doubting whether the candy gets made on site, look through their interior window in the store as well as from the street at the progress in their kitchen.

Your Concord food tour begins at White Mountain Gourmet Coffee on Pleasant Street. A few selections from their single source organic Fair Trade coffee are always brewing fresh along with an assortment of same day baked treats.

Culinary Highlights Along Main Street

Head down to Main Street’s restaurant row starting with Dos Amigos Burritos, hand crafted Mexican at taqueria prices. Since opening in 2003, they’ve been serving up the expected standards buttressed with house made tortillas and tasty sides like grilled corn on the cob and char-grilled jalapenos stuffed with cream cheese and mushrooms.

Making a quick detour down Depot St., you’ll discover the region’s best Italian. Angelina’s Chef Richard cooks fresh classics to order like handmade ravioli and Insalata Calamari. Just so you’re not confused, Sunny’s Table, an American Asian bistro is at the same address but both have separate entrances and completely different menus.

Back on Main St., longstanding Siam Orchid Thai Bistro cooks up authentic dishes like Tamarind Duck and Pad Tai you simply can’t find anywhere else in New Hampshire. You can usually get a sense of how serious a community is about their cooking by checking out their go-to cooking supply store. Here in Concord, it’s Things Are Cooking that carries the crockery and utensils needed to outfit your kitchen. A few doors down, 30 different types of bread are baked at Crust and Crumb. Each day, several featured flavors like their maple pecan or citrus wheat berry are sure to be warm to the touch when you buy them.

Just before crossing Main St. to the Statehouse grounds, you’ll find craft beers on tap and entrees worthy of any lobbyist taking refuge at Barley House Restaurant and Tavern. Once you’re in front of the Statehouse under the grandly ornate arch marking the entrance, you have access to 194 years of history under the dome and right across the street, the grave and home of Franklin Pierce, the only US President from New Hampshire.

Best Places for Quick Bites

Affordable lunchtime favorites include The Soup Gallery tucked off Main Street on a quiet brick cobbled courtyard featuring a daily roster of soups reflecting the season’s bounty like carrot ginger and turkey chipotle. If you’re lingering during summer, there’s grab-your-own-seating outside the door. For raw & super food devotees, the smoothies at Live Juice can be just as customized as you are quirky with add ins like hemp protein and Matcha green tea powder. For self serve local delicacies and groceries, be sure to drop into the local food co-op, a growing staple in New England village centers. For the uninitiated, co-ops are essentially miniature non-corporate versions of Whole Foods where members of the cooperative decide where products like vegetables and bulk grains are purchased. The result is much more localized sourcing of produce and ingredients.

Best Place to Splurge

The Granite Restaurant in the Centennial Inn several blocks away from Main up on Pleasant St is the place to shoot the moon with a luxe night out. The kitchen helmed by Chef Corey Fletcher turn out Farm-to-Table smashes like a mean grilled lamb porterhouse or a hearty mushroom and goat cheese strudel . Their extensive wine list and inventive house cocktails elevate the experience that much more.

Photos & video courtesy of Steve Mirsky. Coverage made possible by participating in a partially sponsored visit.